The National Weather Service has issued a High Surf Warning for the North Shore of all Hawaiian Islands except Lanai today. A high surf warnings means very large waves with wave faces in excess of 25 feet. This swell is already hitting the beaches of Kauai and starting to hit Oahu. This really large surf will likely start hitting the beaches along the North Shore of Maui sometime around sunset or later this evening. Waves of this size will close out most surf breaks. The exception of course are breaks like Jaws and other outer reefs.
Surf conditions during a high surf warning can be quite hazardous. All but the most experienced and skilled surfers and water people should stay out of the water. That being said, it is always exciting when the first big surf event of the season hits the island. Much like the first big snow in the mountains, the first big surf of the season brings an electricity to the air among the coastal communities of the North Shore of Hawaii. I hope to get my hands on some good pictures from tomorrow’s surf.